Monday 31st August: Cool morning warm midday, hot afternoon, with clear skies all day: 18°C to 27ºC.
Braunwald to Elm: Jan and Ian 22K: 8.00am to 4.30pm: 8hrs 30 mins - PLUS Train (30min) to Linthal and cable car down: Jenny and Graham 15k: 5hrs General Suworow train Schwanden to Elm
Accommodation: Gasthaus Segnes Elm
Highlight of our day was doing a 1600 metre climb to Rechetli Pass, then getting into Elm late in the day to find Graham and Jenny had already completed their 15k Valley Walk of General Suworow and were waiting for us with cold beers from the local supermarket.
Breakfast at the Adrenalin Backpackers is at 7am - spartan bread and jam with tea/coffee. Ian and I have decided to do the high route to Elm via Richetli Pass at 2261m, a climb of 1600metres from Linthal. Jenny has opted to catch a bus to do the General Suworow valley walk into Elm. Graham has elected to keep Jenny company on the valley walk called General Suworow! Ian and I are away at 7.30am, buying a loaf of fresh bread before catching the Braunwald cog train down into Linthal. .
The day is a cool 18ºC with blue skies, and there's another couple, Martin and Terri, who have caught the same train down and are also hiking up to the Richetli Pass. We all cross the train line and follow the signs up the gravel road, playing tag as we walk at different paces up and up. The sign at the bottom in Linthal said 5 and 1/2 hours to Richetli Pass, but the morning is cool and the walk is mostly in the shade of pine forests or the shadow of the valley and we move fairly quickly up the mountain hoping to get there sooner to be in time for the Ampachli cable car down to Elm at the end of the day.
After 2 hrs of mostly forest hiking, time for a 10min coffee stop by the stream, and to buy a small piece of Alpine cheese from an old timber chalet serving as a cheese factory, complete with all quarantine and hygiene requirements - coats, hats, sealed doors etc. Then the path crosses a stream and goes up through a very steep gap towards the top. It's mostly meadows and cows as we climb relentlessly, but at least it's still cool. At 12.30pm after 4 hrs 15 minutes, we reach Richetli Pass at 2261m on a perfect summers day. For the past hour we've seen no clean water, only dried up streams, symptomatic of the dry summer in Switzerland, and our water bottles are quite low. If we have lunch of salty cheese and bread here we'll be so thirsty for the afternoon, and besides there's still one more high pass to cross.
So after a quick snack of apple, it's down a steep path to a huge basin a few kilometres wide, surrounded by high alps, with meadows, cows and dirty streams - until I find a bubble of water from an underground stream that's icy cold and free from cow plops - a great place to fill our water bottles. In the centre of this weird basin, we hear blasting and think it’s thunder, but there's no storms, and the noise reverberates around the basin. It's constant - perhaps a quarry or they're digging a tunnel? We later find out that the Swiss army has a base near Elm and they're always shooting or bombing. Across the meadow to the other side of the basin there's another 200 metre climb to the basin lip. It's time for our cheese and bread.
Down and down again and after 2hrs of more downhill, we reach Oberobs, where there's supposed to be a bus - and there is. But we also see a sign for a 1 and 1/2 hrs walk to Ampachli, along the Erbs to the Ampachli cable car, and this is supposed to be a really nice balcony walk above Elm, and since it's only 2.30pm, we (make that I) decide to keep on walking to the cable car. The afternoon gets warmer, and there's whole families out reaping grass and hauling it down the hill to a waiting tractor.
At 4.30pm we arrive at the privately run cable car and pay an expensive CHF10 to hop in the gondola and be whisked down the mountain side to Elm. Another 10 minute walk to our Gasthaus Segnes, and find that Jenny and Graham had already arrived from their 15k hot walk up the valley. Graham's shopping for dinner and arrives back soon after with a bag of cold beers. Ian's so thirsty he has a beer in the shower! Thanks Graham for a nice cold beer, and thanks for the lovely dinner of salmon, ham, lettuce tomatoes and mayo with an Austrian Pinot Noir.