Tuesday 20th June: Weather 20°C to 26°C Hot and sunny
Bedous to Lescun: Train from Pau to Bedous. 14k walk from Bedous to Lescun: 9am to 2.30pm
Altitude gain and loss: Total ascent 963m: Total descent 482m
Accommodation: Herbegement Pic D’Anie Hotel
Boulevard des Pyrenees
With hazy views to the Pyrenees
Waiting for the train at Gare de Pau
1hr 5mins to Gare de Bedous
Breakfast at the bus stop
Heading to the Pyrenees
Time to check the map
Not the Alps but still spectacular
Cold water from the farmhouse
Chemin d’Esquit a Lescun
Much stop
Storms brewing
Lescun village with views to Cirque de Lescun
Highlight today was seeing the compact village of Lescun sitting tucked into the hills with the magnificent panorama of the Cirque de Lescun spread around like an amphitheatre.
It was a hot night. The temperature never dropped below 25°C in the room. Our washing, hanging on the window knob, dried in less than an hour last night before we even went to bed. At 6am we’re up having a cup of tea and answering emails.
By 6.45am we’re out the door and walking along the Boulevard des Pyrenees with views out to the Pyrenees about 50k away. In 10 minutes we’re at Pau station where I buy 2 x over 65’s tickets from Pau to Bedous. The train departs on time at 7.30am and its a picturesque ride through the Aspe Valley to Bedous, the end of the train line. There’s time for breakfast at the bus stop outside the station - yoghurt, nectarines and muesli. A quick wander up through the village to buy a loaf of fresh bread and at 9.30am we’ve started our walk in the Pyrenees.
It’s getting hotter by the minute as we follow the GR653 along a D road. The GR653 is one route of the St James way, but we only follow it for 5 k to the next village of Acous where we turn off at the Pont d’Esquit and follow the signs “Chemin d’Esquit a Lescun” which is a secondary walking track marked with yellow tags. Within 30 minutes, we’ve started to climb up hill on a very steep overgrown track. Our shirts are drenched with sweat as we climb for almost 2hrs before getting to a better track in the beech forest. A sign indicates its 8k to Lescun. Time for a coffee break.
An hour later, there’s a fork in the track - the choice is 4k to Lescun or 5k to Refuge L'Aberouat through the Foret d’niche. Going to L'Aberouat would mean a further 5k to Lescun making this route 10k. We elect the more direct route to Lescun. Our first day with a 800 metre climb in 26°C heat is a good start.
By 1.30pm we arrive at a turn in the track with panoramic views over the Lehr Valley below - a good spot for lunch of bread, cheese and cold water from the fountain at the last farmhouse. It’s only a short walk til we turn the corner to see the village of Lescun sitting snugly with its back to the green hills and a wonderful panorama of the Cirque de Lescun spread in front.
It doesn’t take long to wind our way through the village streets to find our Hotel Pic d’Anie with umbrellas and tables out the front - an inviting scene after a long hot day. We meet Arnaud, our host, who shows us to our room on the second floor, then its downstairs to sit under the shade of the umbrella sipping beer.
Dinner is at 7.30pm. Marlene, our hots has prepared an entre of omelette, main of sliced ham with casseroled vegetables and chocolate cake for dessert. Our company for dinner is Art and Jackie, two Americans, and Ilio, a French local. Art is walking the GR10 while his wife Jackie carries his gear and meets up with him and selected locations where she can drive to on the track. Ilio is a bit macho and does 2 days worth of hiking on one.
Early to bed in a cool room. Despite being at 900 metres, its still 25°C in Lescun, while Paris and Pau are both closer to 40°C. Here in the mountains is a good place to be.