2022 Tor des Geants Italy

Friday 2nd September:  Weather: 5°C to 16°C: Very cold then misty, then cloudy and 16°C

Day 17 Grand Tournalin to Rifugio Barmasse:  13.7k: 7 hrs: 8am to 3pm: 1 x 30 min stop 

Ascent/Descent: Ascent 1,218m, Descent 1,605m, Total up and down 2,823m 

Accommodation: Rifugio Barmasse

Day 17 highlights were when an expected hard day turned into a fabulous day except for the early morning mist. Two cols today, Col di Nana at 2,770m then shortly after, Col des Fontaines at 2,695m. Morning tea at Cheneil then the delightful old village of Cretaz in the valley followed by a steep uphill climb to Rifugio Barmasse at 2,175m, near the dam wall of Lake Cignana.

The alarm goes off at 6.45am and we rush to go down to breakfast which we’ve nominated to be 7am, to get away early at 7.30am.  But the chef is nowhere to be seen.  We wait and wait and at 7.20 he shows up in a rush, obviously he’s slept in, and we have cornflakes and muesli, hard crusty toast and jam with a very Luke warm cup of tea.  A same that this Rifugio was so nice but there was a bit of slack in the meal system. 

It’s 8am when we get leave.  Earlier when looking out teh window at breakfast the sun was shining brightly, but now the mist is rolling in and it’s 5°C.  I get geared up with beanie, gloves, a neck scrunchie and fleece vest and we start the uphill climb to Col di Nana through the cold mist.  It’s a 40min up hill steep hike and we arrive at 8.45am just as the sun peaks out of the mist.  The downhill on the other side is too easy - just a stroll down the grassy zig zags and before we know it we’re walking slightly uphill again and arrive at the second Col des Fontaines at 2,695m.  There’s supposed to be a fantastic view south to the Gran Paradiso and across to teh Matterhorn, but today there’s too much mist and cloud. 

It’s just a roll down the other side as we head down hill to Cretaz in teh valley.  It’s quite desolate, except for a chirpy marmot.  The down hill is mostly easy with a section os steeper stepping rocks down to the next level through the cows. On and on then down to the pretty village of Cheneil, famous for Fontina cheese, arriving at 11am.  Time for a coffee and a chuck of apple strudel. As we leave an ultra trail runner sprints past, training for some ultra trail or other.  

 We’ve already descended 600 metres from Col des Fontaines, and there’s another 400 metres to descend down through the pine forrest to Cretaz, an ancient village with very narrow streets.  We arrive at 1pm but know it is a steep uphill climb to Barmasse for about 2 hrs so we decide to keep on going as storms were forecast for this afternoon.  Through Cretaz, then up to the more modern ski village of Valtournenche, finally finding the signs to Rifugio Barmasse.

Up through the pine forests and past a serious rock climbing wall that hangs above us over the vertical.  No thanks.  After 2hrs of uphill, we see the dam wall of Lake Cignana.  The track passes beneath the wall, and up the other side to the Rifugio Barmasse.  We’re arrive at 3pm and shown to our room - a double bunk in a 2 person room, with a beautiful view of Lake Cignana behind the dam wall.  A quick shower (operated by a coin until it stops in 2 mins)  washing socks and shirts in the bottom of the shower base.  Then down to the tables in the bar to have 4pm lunch of cereal bread, tomato and cheese.    

Time to blog for a while until we hear the first English speaking voices for 4 weeks - Tim, Barbara and Chris from Chepstow, Wales, - Chris and Tim are hiking and Barbara meets them at allocated spots by car. Chris and Tim are mostly hiking mostly the AV1 and they are going to Cuney tomorrow - that’s good to know, because it is another long day tomorrow through rugged alps.  There’s another group of 6 guys also from the UK, who are through hiking to Rifugio Magio. It’s not only the first through hikers we’ve met this trip, but they speak English! We chat with Chris, Tim and his wife Rodgs (?)  until dinner time at 7.30pm.  The first course of Pasta and strips of ham sprinkled with cheese is very hot and tasty, followed by a large chunk of Pork shank and a mountain of sliced carrots.  Dessert is coffee flavoured Mousse.  We’ve been sitting chatting, blogging, eating for 5 hrs when we go to bed at 9pm and as soon as I stand up, I get a cramp in the calf muscle.  Not good.  Two nurofen and I hope it’s gone in the morning.