Friday 12th August: Weather: 11°C to 28°C: Sunny but hazy. Hot at times with a late cooling dry breeze
Chamonix: 17.3k Walk Planplaz to Argentiere via Col des Montets: 7 hrs 8.30am to 3.30pm 2 x 20 min breaks
Ascent/Descent: Ascent 750m, Descent 1,550m, Total up and down 2,300m
Accommodation: Chamonix Chalet
Hang Gliders at Planpraz
Mont Blanc seen from everywhere
Rock climbers
Morning Coffee ar La Flegere
More Mont Blanc Views
Retreating Glacier
Absolutely stunning day with views across to Mont Blanc all day. Today we plan to walk our second leg of the Tour de Mont Blanc (TMB) from the Planpraz Cable car station at 2,000m to Argentiere via the Col de Montets. This will be the 5th time we have done this section of the TMB having been here in 2005, 2009, 2012 on our complete circuits and again in 2014 when we hiked part of the TMB as we passed through Chamonix on Our High Route from Zermatt.
Another early start after waking at 4.30am. Time to catch up on emails and blog then have breakfast. We’re out the door at 7am and walk to the cable car station in the centre of Chamonix, intending to go back to Planpraz. But it doesn’t start opearting until 8.15. So for the next hour we amuse ourselves watching people arrive. First on the scene were the hang gliders carrying their 20kg parachutes rolled into a large back pack, accompanied by their paying customers taking their first tandem hang glide. Then the tourists arrive in thongs, then day hikers with their dogs and children. The Tour de Mont Blanc hikers are easily spotted with their humongous 15kg back packs, rock climbers with umpteen metres of rope coiled around their neck,and then the super fit ultra trail runners with their La Sportiva shoes - the most popular ultra trail running shoe in Europe.
At 8.15am the cable car starts and 6 at a time we pile into a cabin. Fifteen minutes later we’re at Planpraz at an altitude of 2,000m ready to start our walk but first stopping to watch the hang gliders take off.
The first 2hrs is a balcony walk, mostly parallel to the valley floor but with many tiring ups and downs. It’s already warm so we soon stop to strip off our extra shirts and vests. It’s busy with day hikers heading our way but soon coming towards us, are large groups of Tour de Mont Blanc (TMB) hikers with their guides. We’re stopping and starting as we stand to one side to let each group of about 15 people pass by. There must have been at least 20 groups - big business when you consider they probably pay $1,000 to $2,000 per person per night for the privilege of a guided tour. Our costs are roughly $125AUD per person for food and accommodation. ($200pn for our Chalet and $50 for our wine and food.
The walk to La Flegere should have taken less than 2 hours but with all the stopping and starting it took almost 3 hours Not thet it's a race but we were looking forward to trying out our new jetboil to make. cup of coffee at La Flegere. But it was interesting watching hundreds of hikers of all shapes and sizes in groups doing the TMB. Finally we get to sit in a deck chair and have our cup of coffee.
The next section of the hike from La Flegere to Argentiere has two alternatives - the route via Col des Montets is about 2 k longer than a lower shorter route which descends by a series of ladders - no thanks. So we opt for the longer higher route with it’s stunning views to Mont Blanc. At first the track climbs to the Aguilles Rouses at 2130m before descending down a steep rocky path that seemed to go on forever. After two hours, we stop for lunch in the shade of a tree with. cooling breeze. Lunch is a cup of tea, with fig rolls.
At 3pm we’re at the bottom. The path passes by La Bourne, a refuge at Tre Le Champ where we have stayed several times on our previous TMP hikes. Thirty minutes later we’re at the Gare in Argentiere waiting for the 3.57pm train to Chamonix. It's crowded with hikers and Ian has no choice but to sit near a lady with her dog. She was most upset when the conductor came through and made her pay a single adult fare for teh dog.
We roll in the door to our apartment at 4.30pm after a tiring but stunning day. A cold beer first on the list. After a quick shower with clothes washed in the bottom base, it’s time for dinner - same as last night - French bread, ham, etc etc After dinner, we walk up to the local Carrefours supermarket and but enough dinner for teh next 2 nights. We can’t wait to get out. It’s the local store and full of derelicts and hoboes coughing and spluttering. Nothing like the Casino supermarket in teh heart of Chamonix.
28° deg so lunch in the shade
Refuge La Bourne - we stayed here in 2005, 2009 and 2012
Back to our unit, a cup of tea and bed.