Wednesday 17th September: Hazy sunny 15°C to 22°C
Thonon les Bains to Chateau de Coudree: 13.4k: 9.30am to 2.30pm: 5 leisurely hours
A lazy hazy day ambling along the foreshore of Lake Geneva. No rush, no Alps, no ups and downs, just a stroll along the foreshore of Lake Geneva. A quick tourist's visit to the fishing Port of Rives just below Thonon-Les-Baines, coffee at Chateau Montjoux, picnic lunch with a beer and wine near the Port of Sciez and a restful afternoon at the Chateau de Coudree, a 12th Century chateau with beautiful gardens right on the edge of Lake Geneva.
Our room at La Rennovation last night was perfect - not luxurious but we like a self-contained room with a fridge and kitchenette. After a sleep in, it's meusli and yoghurt for breakfast with a hot cup of tea. The jug doesn't work but the induction cooktop is just as quick. We don't leave until 9.30am, and the first stop is the boulangerie around the corner for a fresh baguette for lunch. Just over the road is the Funiculaire, Thonon’s 19th Century hillside railway linking the elevated town to the fishing port below. Constructed in 1888, ‘Le Funiculaire’ was moved by a counter-weighting system using 11 tons of water, but since 1990, it has been powered by electricity. It costs 1 Euro and we're playing tourists today. The harbour is choc-a-block with cruising boats but at one end are the small fishing boats moored to the bank, each fisherman having a small boat shed from which they operate. The fish pots are ginormous, the nets are like fine silk and the boats are tiny like a surf boat.
Wandering past the old 12th Century tower and along a narrow road near the foreshore, we arrive at the Chateau Montjoux. We've only been walking an hour, but why not stop for an early coffee. Thirty minutes later, we dawdling along a cycle/pedestrain walk way, just gazing at all the old houses built along the lakeside. There's a park at the end of which there's a track with a sign that indicates we can walk on private land between the houses and the Lake side, provided we don't stray more than 3.25 metres. Obviously, some government department has seconded an area along the foreshore for the public to walk and enjoy the lake This track is only a few metres from the lakeside, and at times is actually on the beach. It terminates about 6k along at the Port of Sechex where there's a flat seat. It's only 1pm, but why not have lunch, our earliest for weeks. Ian has rescued a beer and has a water bottle full of red wine from last night, and together with our fresh bread and left over meats and cheeses, we have a leisurely one hour picnic by the lake. Just us. France is not on holidays so there's very little activity along Lake Geneva.
We can see Chateau de Coudree just around the corner and 30 minutes after lunch, we're there. It's even marked on the map as a place. The check in time is not supposed to be until 3pm, but we're just about teh only ones here tonight. We're shown to our huge room, up two flights of stairs and around seven corners. Unfortunately, the restaurant isn't open tonight and we'd planned to have a relaxing meal at this place renowned for it's fine dining. We'll either have to walk 5k there and back to a supermarket or scratch around for more left overs. After a restful afternoon, the decision is made - leftovers. Time to relax without adding any more k to the day.
At 5pm, it's time to wend our way around the maze of corridors and find our way downstairs to the bar. There's just us. Just us in this huge Chateau. We feel like we're winding down after our great adventure. The restaurant isn't open Tuesday or Wednesday so we've scratched the bottom of the food bag to find some cheese, Beaufort sausage, lettuce and a tomato. There's only two days left and lots of towns and villages between here and Geneva. One more Chateau to go and we've finished.