Wednesday 6th July: Blue skies and more blue skies, 8°C to 22°C
Maljasset to Ceillac: 16k walk: 8.20am to 3.20pm: 7 hrs
Another stunning blue sky day in the alps. It can't get any better! Highlight of the day was getting to the top of the Girardin at 2700 metres, a very steep climb up 800 metres from Mljasset. And the views were absolutely stunning.
There's 4 of us crammed in a small dorm, so when we wake at 6am, we're all awake. Time to have a shower, pack and go down to an early breakfast. A big day ahead - not long, just steep and high. Breakfast is bread and jam, and unfortunately luke warm coffee. We say good bye to Hubert and Klyte, pay the bill and collect 2 picnic lunches. We've had picnic lunches before - mostly they consist of a small container of cous cous sprinkled with a few green peas, a few bits of bread, an apple and a chocolate and muesli bar. And today's was the same, so we supplemented it with a hunk of cheese from yesterday and shared it around.
Klyte suggested that the best track up to the Col du Girardin was to retrace our steps back down the road to La Barge, instead of climbing the steep track behind Maljasset, so at 8.20am we're walking down the road to find teh GR5 turn off. It starts steep and gets steeper. After 1 hour, Ian and I are ahead, and we cross a very steep shaley rock fall where teh track is broken away, slippery with rolling stones, with a 200 metre drop off. I scamper through, Ian tip toes through and decides to wait for Jenny, as he thinks it will be a challenge for her. We wait 45 minutes, and when they get to this steep shaley crossing, Jenny freaks out and Graham scores a mountain of brownie points by helping her across and even carrying her bag over the skinny track.
We're now up about 500 metres and the track crosses a level meadow before rising sharply to the bare top which we can see in the distance. Step by step it's up the zig zag track and when Ian and I reach the top of teh Col di Girardin at 2700 metres, the views on the other side are breathtaking - snow capped alps across to the Queyras. The usual Col sign is missing, but undeterred, I find a biro and write a makeshift sign signalling Girardin, 2700 m. The skies are blue, it's not cold, not windy, not raining, and we perch on a rock to have a coffee while waiting for Graham and Jenny who arrive later, somewhat mentally exhausted from the hairy scary track lower down.
It's so beautiful, it's hard to leave, but after dozens of photos we step off down the other side which is steep but not nearly as steep as the track up from La Barge. There's many hikers on the track today, some on the GR5 going north, some going south but also many day hikers who have parked on the Ceillac side and walked up to the col, a much safer easier route but still a 1100 m climb. Likewise, we now have a 1100 m descent. Thirty minutes later we pass Lake St Anne where there's dozens of hikers having lunch. It's only 12.30, a bit too early for lunch, so we continue through the forest on a track lined with flowers, to Lake Mirror, a brown lake at the bottom of a set of snow capped mountains, that sometimes reflect in the lake, but not today with the slight breeze creating ripples. It's a good spot for lunch under a pine tree - shared cous cous, some bread and cheese.
Then it's down, down, down. The track is very steep and stony which makes it slippery, and after 2 hrs of slipping and sliding we see the little village of Pied du Mezelet below us in an open valley. There's only 4 places there so our Hotel La Cascade has to be one of them. Ww walk up to the bridge up stream and then hear the thunderous water fall they call The Cascades, with water tumbling 200 metres over the to edge, hitting the rocks below and cascading down into the valley. There's a picnic table near the Cascades and we stand long enough to shoo away the only person sitting there so we can have a cup of Jetboiled tea. Then it's just 100 metres across to the Hotel La Cascade, where we each have a double room. There's even a TV in the bedroom where we get to watch the last hour of the Tour de France.
An hour of washing and blogging and we're down having a drink in the bar waiting for dinner at 7.30pm. After a few drinks and a few bowls of peanuts, we're not that hungry and settle for shared lamb chops and green salad which is more than enough and really nice. Then it's bed.