Thursday 23rd June: Blue skies and cool to warm, 16°C to 20°
Col de Turini to Refuge de Merveilles: 15.7k walk: 8.30am to 3.30pm, 7hrs
Another big climb. More than 1000m today. A most spectacular day in teh Mercantour National Parc. Stunning views from the Col de Raus (1999m) and the Pas du Diablo (2040m), then down into the Vallee des Merveilles (Valley of Marvels) famous for its Bronze age hyerglyphics.
Our day starts early at 6.30am to beautiful views through the forrest and down the Valley back towards Moulinet. There's no WiFi so Graham is the first down to breakfast. It's very ordinary - bread and jam with awful coffee, but at least a hot cup of tea. Ian has bought a jar of honey from our host and Jenny bought a loaf of bread for our picnic today.
We're up the road on the GR52 at 8.30am, our earliest start yet. A beautiful blue sky day and after an hour we're at L'Authion, another fort left over from the Maginot line. There's many walkers on this section of the GR52, some going to the Vallee des Merveilles, others coming from it and many day walkers from the near by road, the D68.
There's a 400 metre climb from Camp d'Argent to Col de Rous at 1999m and the views across the Mercantour in all directions are stunning. Picture perfect except for a light blue haze. At one point, we can see right back to Monaco, just when we thought we'd left the Mediterranean behind. We reach a point just short of the Col de Raus at 10.30am and time for a coffee under a shady pine tree. It will be the last the the shade as from now on we're above the 2000m tree line.
It's a steep rocky climb up the the Pas de Diable from the Baisse de St Veran at 1836m. There's a cool breeze but it's hard work. But at 1.30pm, after a few stops, we're ther, and just over the Pas there's a few lakes, where we have lunch. It's a stony steep walk down through boulders and lakes to reach the Refuge des Merveilles. It's already crowded with hikers. We can't get into the showers until 4pm (no rush, they're stone motherless cold) and the dormitories don't open until 6pm. There's a little sitting room where the hikers gather an chat - no English voices here and no oldies either. Mostly young fit hikers. Graham braves the showers first - think of cold and double it he says. I'm happy with a quick splash and a dash.
Dinner is at 7pm - pasta soup, followed by stewed turkey with more pasta, then a dish of stewed mashed apples (we think), a bit like baby food. We discover another group of Aussies after hearing the only English for a few days - a group of women from a bush walkers club in Sydney who are doing it tough - long hard walks, below basic refuges, and a lack of veggies. At 8.30, with no lights upstairs, it's time for bed. Little do we know what the night will bring!!!