Monday: 22nd May: Weather: 10°C to 21°C:
Wembury to Bigbury-on-Sea: 20.0k walk: 7?hrs 30mins: 8am to 3.30pm: 1 x 1hr wait ferry: Ascent 720 metres
Accommodation: Sloop Inn Hotel Bantham across river from Bigbury-on-Sea
Up through the cows
Highlights of our day 9 were crossing two rivers, the River Erme which we waded acrosss at mid tide with water up to our thighs, and the River Avon in a small ferry to reach Bantham. And the cliff views today were just stunning on a warm blue sky day.
We’re awake at 6am and have an early breakfast of yoghurt and muesli for Ian and I have bread and jam with a cup of tea. There’s two rivers to cross today, the River Erme and the River Avon and the problem is that we have to wade over the Erme at low tide at 2.20pm then rush off past Bigbury to catch the last ferry at 4pm across teh River Avon to Bantham. So we’re leaving early hoping that the Erme can be crossed a bit earlier, giving us more time to get to the Avon for the 4pm ferry. That’s the plan.
Up through the cows
Crossing River Erm
Chris helps Jan across Erme
Looking back over Erme Estuary
Wonderful views towards Bigbury
Several Steep climbs today
More Coastal views from Bigbury
Holiday Park at Challaborough
Estuary Avon River Current too fast
Jan hops off ferry over Avon River
It’s 8am when we leave our fabulous barn, and head off down several country lanes, past Revelstoke House and then down a public footpath which joins the South West Coast Path near Stoke Point. The path is rough and covered with stinging nettles and long grass and just when we think the path is better, we encounter the cows and there’s a bull cow amongst them who objects to Ian walking between him and his lady friends. The bull lets out a roar and races over to his ladies, just as I scurry past.
Its 11am and has taken us 3 hours to walk about 8k to the River Erme, and the tide is too high for us to walk over to the other side. So we sit and have a coffee and fig roll while contemplating what to do. The tide is running out quickly and at 11.45, we decide to have a go. Chris is a local sitting near by and he offers to help us find a way over. He changes into his swim shorts, and we take off our shoes and socks and he leads us across teh sand banks to the best part of the river to cross. Ian follows Chris over and makes sure he gets across OK then he comes back to help me over. THANKS CHRIS! The water is up to my thighs but in the middle of the channel, the current is very strong and I needed poles plus Chris holding me up to get across.
We couldn’t have done it without the help of Chris - well we could have if we’d waited another 2 hours for low tide, but then we would have missed the next ferry to Bantham. The water was freezing, the river bottom covered in stones and moss and the current was fast making it difficult to cross at mid tide. Once on the other side we try to dry off the sandy dirty mud and put back on our shoes and socks, then head off around the coast path which we’ve been told umpteen times is the best part of the SWCP in Devon. And it was. It was much esier walking than this morning, and the track was mostly clear of nettles and long grass. It gave us time to enjoy the coastal path where in Devon, the rolling pastures meet the top of the cliffs in a clear demarcation.
After two and a half hours walking, we reach the holiday park of Challaborough with more than 200 cabins nestled above the beach. Ten minutes later we’re in Bigbury watching people stream back and forwards to Burgh Island, which is accessible by a tidal path. We’re afraid to stop for fear of missing the last ferry, so we continue around towards the ferry terminal of Cockleridge Ham. The River Avon runs beside Bigbury and we notice that it’s dead and the Chanel has narrowed so that it is passable. But all recommendations are not to cross the River Avon even at low tide because of the shifting sands. So we decide to play safe an climb one more hill to get to the gerry terminal where a sign tells us to ring teh bell and wave to the ferryman on teh other side. He sees us, and waves back but we have to walk about 100 metres across the wet boggy sand to the river channel, and he drives his small 6 seater ferry on to the sand and we clamber over. It’s only a 10 metre trip, butthe water is still fast flowing so better to be safe than sorry. The ferry ride is £4.50 each and he takes card- not another Billy requesting 2 pints at the local pub.
It’s only 50 metres to the Sloop Inn but when we arrive at 3.30pm, the sign says it’s closed until 6pm but there’s instructions on how to get to out room. It’s an older style hotel room with a nice shower and a view across teh pastures. Too late for lunch and too early for a beer, we opt for a biscuit amd a cup of tea while washing, showering and sorting photos. At 6pm we wander down to teh bar for a pint of Korev ale and I have a half pint of Guiness. Having asked for a glass of ice on the way back to our room, we have the second flask of Mateur Rose (on ice) together with last nights left overs of pork meatballs, onion, tomatoes and mushrooms with fresh bread and butter.
Tomorrow we’re in Salcombe, and after studying the maps and planning our shopping for teh Suncot apartment overlooking Salcombe, we’re in bed at 9pm.