Monday 17th June:  Weather: 9°C to 17°C: Cool and cold, overcast with sunny patches, no rain

Padstow to Ruthernbridge:  21.0k walk to Ruthernbridge:  Ascent 483m, Descent 504m

Time:  7am to 2.00pm: Total time 7hrs: Walk time: 6hrs Plus 2 x 30m stops: 

Accommodation: Ruthernbridge Glamping Pod

Highlights today were firstly just starting the Saints Way walk from Padstow to Fowey, and re-discovering the lovely Cornish country lanes as the walk crossed Cornwall from North to South.  Then the Ruthernbridge Glampig Pod I stayed in was even better than basic.

I’m awake at 4.15am and Suzie sees my light on and brings me a lovely cup of Dorset tea.  I re-pack, and weigh my bag.  It’s 9kg, much heavier than I aimed for but Suzie has given me breads, jam, meuslie cakes and scones to go with my already full food bag.  I have a light breakfast then John drives me to Padstow, 40 minutes away via the scenic route and we arrive at St Petros Church where I start the Saints Way.  It's called the Saint’s way because not only does it finish at the Church of St Fimbussan in Fowey, but the Way passes through many villages with old churches.  

I say goodbye to John, see you in 12 days time, and head down through the village where my Garmin watch set for the Saint’s Way route tells me I’m 70 metres off course.  Cutting through a side alley, I’m soon “On Course” and steadily climb up through an overgrown path towards St Denis and the Obelisk, with wonderful views overlooking the River Camel.  For the next 2k it’s up and down through prickles and nettles and I’m beginning to wonder if the whole of the Way is overgrown like this.  

At 9.30am I stop near the small village of Trenance for a MSR boiled coffee with cream I have carried in a small container, and a Vegemite sandwich made from my delicious Sainsbury’s nutty bread bought the day before in Newquay.  It’s a cool 13°C, and I’m still wearing the cashmere beenie John Gave me.  

Over the next two hours, the narrow overgrown path turns into farm tracks and quiet country lanes with the occasional oversized tractor forcing me to squeeze against the stone walled hedge into the nettles - or get squashed. The track rises gently up and down onto the downs with open countryside scattered with wind turbines.  At 12 midday when I reach Hustyn’s Resort and sit on the steps of their stony entrance hut to have a cup of tea and one of Suzie’s scones.  

Continuing on, the Saint’s way follows more farm tracks and country lanes then at Trigusick, I turn off the Way and follow laneways to the pretty village of Ruthern Bridge then turn right for another 500 metres to the Ruthern Valley Holiday Camp, arriving at 2pm.  I’m early, but Andrew answers the door bell to the little camp shop, welcomes me, and hands me the key to W2, a small Glamping Pod about 200 metres up the camp road.  It’s just perfect for me - a comfy bed (there’s room for 3 people) a fridge, microwave, jug and a wall heater which I turn on because it’s still a cool 17°C and getting colder. Andrew soon arives on his little motorised buggy with my bedding - a doona, sheet, and pillow for which I had paid an extra £5 on top of the £50 cost for the pod - very cheap and great value for money.

The shower is down the path and it’s nice and hot.  I use a combination of a chux to wipe myself down then a one square foot piece chamois to dry off.  It will be the only time I need a towel this trip so not worthwhile carrying a big towel for one night only.  I’ve brought dinner with me - a small flask of red wine and a packet tomato and rice soup cooked in the microwave in my red decor cup, with fresh Sainsbury’s bread.  I’m in bed at 8pm, and it’s so quiet and I’m snug and warm.