DAY 26: Wednesday June 27th - Landry to Valezan:
Walk 21k, 7hrs: Blue skies, hot, 18°C to 32°C
Accommodation: Auberge de Valezan
Start of World Championship Kayak course at Bellentre near Landry
Watch from path beside River Isere
Travelling 7k in 13mins is fast
Time for a coffee while we watch
Better hurry to next gap in trees
It's fast and furious and freezing
The catcher - in safety gear ready to jump in if someone tips out
Because its damn dangerous
Another catcher in freezing water
Supporters along the riverside
Whoa I can see what's coming
Ouch
Time for the catcher to jump in
There's a few Aussies here too
Having lunch, waiting before going to Casino supermarket to restock
Making room for lunch for 3 days
Out of the Valley Isere to the Alps
A milestone today. We passed the 500k mark on our way to 700k. Today was supposed to be an easy 7k, however when we found out that the World Championships for Descent Kayaking was on, we decided to watch the event then detour to Aime, a village 10k down the River Isere before going up to Valezan. It was an exciting day watching the kayaks at breakneck speed down the raging torrent. We've both had bellyaches today - I think it's the marmot stew from La Leisse, Ian thinks it's the water from a stream.
We slept well in a queen size bed. After phoning home on WiFi, we pack and go to breakfast where Sara and Steve serve hot tea, muesli, yoghurt, breads, pancakes etc. It's our most expensive night at 160Euro, which included wines, dinner and breakfast - but worth it. The Austrian Kayak team is also staying here and their coach tells us that the racing starts at 9am not 11am, so we hurry up and leave immediately.
The charcuterie over the road is our first stop to buy enough bread, ham, tomatoes and cheese for lunch today. It's going to be a hot day so best to buy more stuff later in Aime. We walk down 1k to the River Isere, then along a cycle track and within 30mins, we’re at the start of the race at Bellentre. It's a time trial with staggered starts, 1 min apart. Walking down the track while watching the kayakers between gaps in the trees is inspiring - such upper body strength to control the kayak in a raging torrent. We stop for an early coffee when we see a picnic table with a good view of the action and take our time.
We walk down to a more shallow part of the river where the rocks are more exposed and more dangerous. Every 50 metres or so there's catchers - guys in wet gear, flippers, crash helmets, tied by a long rope around their waist to a tree - just waiting on a rock in the freezing water, ready to jump in if someone tips out - and they did - and Ian was pleased he caught the action on photo - the kayaker was ok. A few Aussies whiz by and we've been told they’re from Tasmania. We watch the finish near the Aime before moving on. We still need to go shopping and give ourselves time to climb 700 metres to Valezan.
Once in Aime, we find a shady spot (it’s now 30°C) and boil a cup of tea while we wait for the shops to re-open at 2pm. The Casino supermarket is just down the road (according to Google) so the next stop is lunch under a tree before shopping for bread, cheese, dried ham, powdered milk and a green capsicum. The cold stuff gets wrapped in my scarf and pushed deep into my bag then off up the mountain. It's now 32°C and hot walking up the road. Ian looks for a short cut up the mountain in the shade. Yes, there’s a gravel road between apple orchards - logically the path is named Sentier de Pomme.
Passing up through a few small villages, we fill our water bottles with icy cold water. Ian is drenched in sweat - I'm dripping - I handle the heat, he handles the cold. The village of Valezan looms at 4pm after a 7 hr day and 20k. There's just a few houses, so it's easy to find the Auberge de Valezan on the main road. A large bus group of pensioners is dawdling out of the restaurant taking their time photographing each other. Ian's tongue is hanging for a drink at the Bar overlooking the valley of the River Isere. At last we go in and have a beer and a Perrier before going to our room - it's perfect with a balcony overlooking the valley - and it's in the sun so great for drying our washing. In 10 mins we’re showered . I wash the clothes and rinse, Ian wrings and hangs. The clothes are dry in the 1hr I have been blogging.
While we sip on a wine/beer, a couple from The Netherlands arrive from Plan de la Lai - near where we’re going tomorrow, and they took 10hrs. We’ll need to leave early in the. morning. Dinner is at 7.30pm - entree of cold meat or salad - we take one of each and share, main is curried rice and chicken, dessert is cream and berries or chocolate tart – again we take one of each and share. A carafe of red with the meal is nice - buy I ‘m so thirsty, I ask for a cup of ice to go with it. Upstairs, we drag our washing in, read the newspaper that Ian had downloaded and have an early night ready for an early start. Thank goodness our belly aches have gone – literally!
Window view - Auberge Le Valezan